South African Wilderness

We visited South Africa in Aug 2015.

 

Kruger National Park

Our first stop up on reaching South Africa (landing in Johannesburg) was to head out to the Kruger National Park (KNP), for our long awaited safari. The park is huge and there are many things to consider while planning a trip there - so we will try to highlight some of the important parameters below:

Private Game Reserves

Here, it is important to understand that KNP consists of a government maintained park (as part of the South African National Parks), and a Greater Kruger National Park area which mainly consists of the private game reserves.

Link to a tripadvisor post (link) which we found very helpful while researching the differences between KNP and the private game reserves.    

To cut a long article short, area wise KNP is larger; but here you will have to rely on either driving jeeps yourself or jumping into overcrowded (shared) jeeps for your safari. Also, you will have to stay at lodges / inns - where the best you can hope for is a bed with or without food.
This is in contrast to the private game reserves where you can live in luxurious tents / chalets / suites - all in the jungle - enjoying guided safaris and gourmet food. Clearly, the more you are willing to pay, the more luxury you can enjoy inside the jungle.
So here it is more of a decision between may be your budget and your sense of "roughing it up" in the wilderness.

Of course, everyone goes to a safari to see animals (and birds) in their natural habitat - so the variety of animals one can expect to see is a big deciding factor.

Variety of Animals - Big 5

The most relevant point here is that there are currently NO boundaries (physical fences) between the KNP and private game reserves. So the probability - at least the theoretical one - of sighting an animal in KNP and private game reserves is the same. The same applies to choosing among the many private game reserves, where some of the more prominent are: Timbavati, Balule, Sabi Sands, etc.

While talking about the animals, everyone here refers to the Big 5: Lion, Leopard, Elephant, Buffalo, Rhinoceros.  Basically, the 5 are referred to as the Big 5 because it seems that they are most dangerous to hunt. One might be surprised to find Buffaloes in this list, however it seems that they can be really revengeful if you somehow manage to injure them without killing them.

Of course, the Big 5 is a marketing term, and you can expect to see many animals in addition to the Big 5: Zebras, Giraffes, Hippos, Steinbucks, Antelopes, etc. But please understand that this a Safari and not a Zoo - so you are never "guaranteed" to see anything - at the same time you may end up seeing much more than you bargained for. For instance, we found the antelope (below) giving us a perfect pose on the very first day of our arrival (while driving to the lodge), while running away from us on almost all the remaining days when we took safaris.

Transportation

The final point which might influence your decision is the location / distance of the reserve. It is basically a 5 hour drive from Johannesburg to KNP - if you decide to go there by car.

A more convenient option is to take a (1 hour) local flight from Johannesburg to Hoedspruit / Nelspruit. Note that given the size of the KNP, even Hoedspruit and Nelspruit are quite far distance wise, so please make sure that the lodge you have booked is close to the airport you are flying to.

Pondoro Game Lodge

We stayed at the Pondoro Game Lodge which is in the Balule game reserve - and we can absolutely recommend it.

A typical day at Pondoro used to start at 6 am in the morning with the morning safari drive. Safaris were on a open jeep with a guide / driver and a tracker. Our guide and tracker (Rulani and Andries) were absolutely wonderful. Rulani always gave us a brief description of the animals / birds we sighted - which was very helpful for us city people. Both were very friendly and absolutely motivated to provide us the best safari experience. We still remember the time when Andries went out on foot in search of lions, and after half an hour we saw a family of lions heading our way with Andries following them calmly with a stick in hand.

As mentioned before, sighting an animal in a safari requires careful tracking - similar to hunting. So Rulani and Andries were basically tracking animals by their footprints and droppings. There were many times when one of the other jeeps (at times belonging to a different lodge) would report a sighting and Rulani would race our jeep there so that we also got a sighting. This resulted in wonderful sightings of a group of lions hunting a pack of hyenas, a group of lions resting together at evening, and a leopard drinking water (it seems leopards are even more difficult to sight as they usually move alone and tend to avoid jeeps). Below are a couple of videos of the above activities:

Some of the other animals we managed to see include zebras, elephants, buffaloes, giraffes, hippos, etc.

We have to mention here that even after being on a safari, and having seen lions / leopards at close range; we still find it very difficult to believe that the animals did not attack us. The guides gave us many reasons, ranging from the animals not being interested in human meat, to having weak eyesight due to which they see the jeep with people in it as one large animal (which they are afraid to attack). Whatever the reason might be, we can safely report that we weren't attacked even once during our 4 safaris trips. So do not be afraid! but at same time be always alert as exceptions may occur at any time :)

Robbie and Lize maintain the lodge as a family home and you are always made to feel very welcome. Returning from the morning safari (around 9 am), there is  a luscious breakfast waiting for you. It is indeed an exhilarating experience having breakfast out in the open, with the sound of a stream flowing nearby,  where different animals often drop by for a drink.

After breakfast, you are free to relax, roam around a bit and explore. The cottages are beautifully designed with modern amenities such as air conditioners, fully equipped bathrooms; and a bit of wilderness such as showers and a jacuzzi out in the open. So you might be taking a shower when an elephant decides to drop by for a visit :)

Below is a video of a group of baboons enjoying our jacuzzi.

After a light lunch, one is again ready to leave on the evening safari - which lasts another 3 hours - often returning after sunset. During sunset, there is usually a break where you can enjoy drinks in the wilderness under the setting sun. 
Up on returning from the evening safari, a 3 course dinner awaits you under candlelight settings - again out in the open if weather permits. Below is a pic of our dining lounge.

We had an absolutely wonderful time at Pondoro, and would definitely return if and when time permits !! 

Picturesque Annecy

We visited Annecy in May, 2015.

Location and Transportation

Annecy is a charming Alpine city - very close to Geneva. So it is a good place to visit if you are flying in to Geneva. Of course, technically, it lies in France - but that shouldn't make any difference as long as you are on a Schengen Visa / Permit.

It only takes about 45 minutes by bus from Geneva to Annecy. Trains are also available, and they are not very expensive; but they end up taking a lot longer (around 2 hrs 20 mins) - as they route you via Culoz and Aix-le-Bains - which is really not the shortest route distance wise. So we would really recommend taking a bus from the Geneva Gare Routiere (bus terminal). It is possible to buy tickets on the spot at the bus terminal.

Scenery

As with most of these Alpine villages, you can see the spectacular combination of lakes and peaks whichever way you look.

Whether you consider it a good or bad thing, Annecy remains a bit hidden from the international touristic landscape. It was nevertheless quite crowded when we visited -  but with mostly locals (both French and Swiss) having a picnic. The place is still quite international that you shouldn't have any problems even if you don't speak any French. Of course, the internationalism is primarily due to its proximity to Geneva, which also implies that you wouldn't get the cheaper French prices for gifts / souvenirs that you would get in most parts of France (other than of course, Paris). So be prepared for prices comparable to the (higher) Swiss prices here.

 

Hotel

We stayed at the Imperial Palace hotel in Annecy. As you can see from the pics below, the hotel and its surroundings are really impressive - easily rivalling a James Bond movie location :) The mandatory lake / mountain views are a given at this hotel. We unfortunately could not get an ariel shot of the hotel, but check out the hotel website for the really impressive pics of the hotel.

"Venice" of the Alps

The most unique and beautiful thing about Annecy is of course its Canals - winding their way through the "old" city - and also the reason for it being called the 'Venice of the Alps'.

The restaurants along the canals make for a picture perfect setting for the senses at night:
mind (peaceful / serene), eyes (alpine scenery), ears (the gentle sound of the water flowing in the canals), and taste buds (authentic french cuisine) - oh, how I wish I was a poet !!.

Magical Nights of Budapest

We visited Budapest in May 2015.

Transportation

Budapest is a major European city, so there is no dearth of flights into Budapest. The airport itself might leave something to be desired, but that probably depends on the Airlines you are flying with. We took Easyjet and got out of the plane somewhere in the middle of the airport, from where we had to walk like 1km to get inside the airport. But I guess nothing surprises the experienced traveler nowadays - air travel is a chore which needs to be completed somehow to get to the more enjoyable parts of a holiday! Of course, this might be different if you can afford to fly Business class ...

Points-of-Interest

As a tourist, the best place to stay in Budapest is to stay in a hotel close to the Chain Bridge.

The chain bridge is an architectural marvel and often listed as one of the primary attractions of Budapest. So try to book a hotel close to the Chain Bridge. We stayed at the Sofitel (which was earlier Hyatt) and its Bridge view rooms indeed provide a magnificent view of the bridge (e.g. the pic above was taken from our hotel window).

There are actually multiple bridges in sequence connecting Buda and Pest. The primary one is of course also the most majestic - and hence is easy to recognize. For example, check out the Bridge entrance below:




The other attractions e.g. the Parliament (below)

and Fisherman's Bastion (below) are also within walking distance. The Bastion is a very interesting place in its own right. With multiple cafes, lookout points, and the impressive fortified structure - it is easy to spend a whole day in the Bastion.

Budapest Nights

The whole area around the Chain Bridge looks mesmerizing at night, hence the many night shots. The lights on the Chain Bridge, Parliament House, and Fisherman's Bastion remain ON till around 1am at night - giving it a magical feel as soon as the sun sets.

Another option to explore Budapest at night is to take a cruise. There are multiple cruise lines which cruise the Danube at night. Some also offer the option to have dinner on the boat. We would really recommend taking one of these as they offer the possibility to enjoy most of Budapest's attractions at night without much legwork - which you can then save to enjoy the nightlife :) Below are some pics from our cruise:

The happening spots, e.g. the street Váci utca, which is like a really long street filled with cafes, restaurants, and souvenir shops; are also within walking distance of the Chain Bridge. So it really pays off to stay at a hotel close to the bridge.

If you keep walking along Váci utca (from the Chain Bridge), you will reach the Great Market Hall (below) - which is more like the flea market where you can get souvenirs at bargain prices. You can already see the prices of souvenirs dropping as you get closer to the Great Market.

  

While Váci utca and the Great Market are good for street shopping, check out Andrassy Avenue for the more trendy and expensive shops e.g. Louis Vuitton, Burberry, and Silka (a local Hungarian fashion brand). A good and easy way to reach Andrassy Avenue is to take the public transport to the Opera (below)

Other places of interest, at least if you are interested in panorama shots of the city (below), include the Gellert Hill lookout points.

     

Bokodi-Hutoto Lake

Tourism in Hungary is still developing! As a result, it is currently very Budapest centric - there is not much by way of information or organized tours to places outside Budapest - at least for the foreign tourist who does not speak Hungarian.

We tried to search on the interest for inspiration w.r.t. to  places to visit outside Budapest. We stumbled upon this article "12 Beautiful photos to make you wonder why you haven't visited Hungary yet" - and I am including the link here as it might be interesting for others as well.

We selected Egerszalok and Bokodi lake - out of which we finalized on Bokodi lake - as Egerszalok was even farther away from Budapest. Although Bokodi lake is closer to Budapest, there is actually an organized tour to Egerszalok - link - so you can check it out if you are interested.

Finally, we booked an private tour with a local driver and set out one fine morning to visit the famed Bokodi-Hutoto lake. Unfortunately, our fears w.r.t. unorganized tourism outside Budapest were well founded, and we did not manage to reach the lake viewpoint depicted in the article. Even our local driver gave up after one hour of trying - it seems that all car roads leading to the lake have been closed - and the only way to reach it is by foot. We only managed to reach a tip of of the lake - so check out our consolation pic of the lake below and let us know if you managed to reach there on your trips.

 

Indian Restaurant

As with all our tours, we also tried to check out at least one Indian restaurant here.  We tried Salaam Bombay which is located just behind the Four Seasons hotel, very close to the Chain Bridge. The restaurant has a good selection of food (menu) items, however the food is just about average. Also, be sure to book in advance as it seems that they have an arrangement with a local Indian tour agent; so the whole restaurant is often booked for Indian tourist groups.